What E-Bike Is Best For You
This article is a great example of what I have been talking about for some time. A gravel bike, adventure, bikepacking, rigid mtb or hybrid are essentially the same. For at least 85% of the riding anyone is going to do, a heavy, energy absorbing suspension (designed for control, not comfort), is a hindrance more than a help.
I should state that I am a fan of much lighter suspensions specifically designed for comfort. Suspension stems and seatposts work.
They are simpler, more reliable and more affordable. They are dramatically more efficient too. Some exceptions are if you have multiple e-bikes, specific to applications. Also, folks that really are going to be riding dirt 85% of the time (not rail trails or even hardpack clay). The thing is, NO bike is designed to do things like slam into curbs or other obstructions. If you can’t lift that wheel to clear an obstruction,(front & rear) you better have an attack angle that can take it. Even in this most extreme of videos, you will note he lifts the front wheel over obstructions and tries to land weight forward, but on the leading edge of his rear wheel, then gently sets the front down with his weight shifted back. We may not have his skills, but almost none of us will ever try tackling anything near so technically challenging.
All this is just a long way around saying that nearly all e-bikes on the market today are not ideal for most cyclists. It’s why daily you read of folks annoyed by the weight (it just isn’t necessary). You should always choose the e-bike that most closely matches the traditional bike you would choose for the same ride.
There are a few notable exceptions. Cargo bikes and bikes for carrying adult passengers, are things we seldom see in The U.S. Want your significant other to go on rides with you, but they just aren’t a cyclist? Get a bike made to carry you and them! That is what I am doing so I can include my wife more come this Spring. Cargo bikes truly are car replacement vehicles.
A lighter weight bike, with a torque sensing mid-drive and a bit more aero (flat bar or drop) geometry is ideal for long distance rides. I have built a few that will go 100 miles on a charge. For touring, exploring longer rail trails or commutes over ten miles each way, this is the way to go. You want your weight spread out over your arms, legs and saddle. You can always add gravel ready tires, if you find they are necessary.
Are you just wanting to take your time and enjoy being outdoors? If your rides aren’t normally over 20 miles, why not choose a more comfortable upright, Dutch style bike?
If you really are going to be riding off road, most of the time, get an actual mtb. There are good reasons fat tires aren’t used for serious mtb’ing. If you intend to invest in more than one bike and you get enough snow, ride through enough tall grass or visit the beach a lot, then adding a fat tire to your stable may be a good idea.
We talk a lot about huge range, light weight and gonzo hillclimbing ability. I concede that some just don’t need it. They want to get out in order to wander around the neighborhood or.visit the Farmer’s Market. There aren’t many, but there are a few that can get by quite well with an economy bike. We are dealers for almost all bikes available on-line. Before you buy, check with me at Ruby’s. I can almost always beat or match their prices and I offer assemblybas well as a year’s worth of free adjustments.