The Perfect E-Bike
Hah, bet you thought I’d include a photo. Fact is, the perfect e-bike doesn’t exist. Except as a custom build, I doubt it will ever. Still, I want to make my case and yes, a lot of the following is just to raise hackles. Hopefully though, it will make folks think.
I won’t even bother to go in to why it has to be a mid-drive. This shouldn’t even be an issue any longer. It needs to be legal everywhere and yet saleable, so torque sensing, 750 watts, no throttle. Such motors exist with up to 160nm’s of torque (more than early Fords).
Such a motor requires an exceptional battery. This has little to do with range, but the heavy amp draw when called upon. It would probably need to be 52 volts and capable of 30amps continuous draw (40 would be better).
It never has made sense to put batteries in square or rectangular cases. Cells are round. I have never thought much of integrated batteries because they are almost always proprietary and require garbage frame tubing. As much as I like my bag batteries, ideally, it needs to be mounted or a part of, the seat or down tube. It must also be easily removable. I like the idea of a 12ah water bottle battery. Most rides are short and two of these batteries, on the bike proposed, should give you 100 miles real world range on the rare occasions you need both.
For the frame, I am ignoring Carbon Fiber for more rugged metal. If performance were the only consideration, it would have to be different. I want a multipurpose and efficient bike that isn’t overkill for commuting. For instance, a mtb or fat bike would be wasteful and inefficient for this application. I’m thinking a gravel ready touring bike. Something with simple, reliable butted steel tubing. Unlike aluminum, it naturally absorbs vibration from road irregularities. With this geometry, it will be stable, comfy and a better value than titanium. It needs to be a step through for comfort and easy mount/dismount in traffic, especially for old folks like myself, but handier for young folks too (ever try throwing your leg over a diamond frame with a baby seat or load of groceries on back?).
I considered a cargo bike. They have an important place, but in one bike, to replace your car, you should consider 90% of your riding. Add a whole lot of brazons for baskets and panniers then a trailer for the rest. Cargo bikes do not appeal to the broader community. Yes, I know, my buddy Tim uses a cargo bike for everything. He also owns one of about everything else. Just because you can do something does not mean it is ideal.
This geometry lends itself well to drop, flat, and recurve as well as specialty bars. You can choose based on the efficiency you want or need. Maybe swap them out?
A belt drive remains efficient over its entire life. Except for an occasional scrub with a dry brush and annual tightening, they are nearly maintenence free for 14k miles (some say more). It nice not to get greasy or worry about what you are wearing as well. Certainly they are silent!
A belt drive requires an internally geared hub. IGH’s are really nice anyway. They require very little maintenance, are oblivious to their environment and are as rugged as you can get. I like the fact that they can be shifted coasting or at a stop. Some can be shifted while pedaling lightly as well! I have used 3, 4, 7 & 8 speed IGH’s. 3 seems to be plenty on an e-bike, but I won’t argue with Grant Petersen of Rivendell who suggests everyone, regardless of application, needs 7 and no more. I miss quick release wheels and suspect as motors start coming with their own gear boxes this may not be a consideration for long.
It would be hard to find 29’er stock touring frames, but 29″ wheels would ride smoother. It would be hard to find a wide range of styles though. My buddy Chris would not trade his for anything. Those big hoops, on a small frame, give the appearance of a very low saddle, like an early motorcycle. 26″ is most common around the world, but the lower attack angle is less comfy. Friends that tour internationally tend to ride 26″ for service reasons. 27.5 (650b) would be amazing, but I think 700c (28″) gives us the widest range of options, at the best price point. I have never seen a need for more than 28c tires, but have contentedly ridden up to 40c without significant loss of efficiency. I can’t say that for wider mtb tires and you know a full sized efat bike can be dangerous.
These tires need to covered with longboat style fenders and mudflaps. It doean’t make sense to invest in a convenience bike, to replace your car, unless it is practical in all weather (to the extreme, though not entirely necessary, I hope to build myself an upright delta trike for this Winter).
I have always liked plastic fenders, but understand the appeal of metal, especially hand hammered as available from Velo Orange. When you are investing this much in a true car replacement, why skimp?
Saddles are hard for folks to understand. If your bike is properly fitted to you and you have no physical limitations, anything should be comfortable. The more you ride, the less padding you want as you don’t want your sit bones digging in to the padding, cutting off circulation to your privates! Touring cyclists tend to prefer leather. That’s what I have always ridden, but anything that works like a sling, rather than as a pad, should be good. The Brooks Cambium series might be the ideal compromise. They don’t need to be broken in and are easier to maintain in all weather.
The next two options are tough for me. I don’t think a steel frame, properly fitted, with good geometry, is ever uncomfortable. I never have understood why people don’t do a better job of getting out of the saddle when they ride over even small irregularities, but take a look…
How about a suspension stem? Unlike suspension forks, that are designed for off road control, they are light and designed to absorb the kind of road irregularities you wouldn’t ordinarily ride around. These can be gotten in a wide range of sizes. Even the very best are under $200. Still very good ones are available for under $100!
Most of the same sort of things can be said for suspension seat posts. They’re just plain comfy, but not as heavy as an off road suspension. You might loose a little pedaling efficiency, so you would have to decide which is more important to your application. Never entirely dismiss the idea of a sprung saddle either. They work!
Finally, what kind of pedals do you want? I have never bought in to clipless pedals (clip in to clipless), but on a torque sensing e-bike their very minimal performance improvement is magnified. Flip-Flop pedals, that allow you to wear both kids of shoes, would seem to be the ideal compromise. Clipless for when pedaling efficiency and range are paramount and flats when it just doesn’t matter!
To build a one off version of the above bike, with all the highest priced options, would run about $4000. In production though, it certainly should be under $3000. With a few minor compromises, you certainly could get a great all around bike for under $2k. The prices being charged for factory e-bikes are either absurdly cheap because they are junk, or absurdly high for what you are getting (with a very few minor exceptions). What do you think?